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“It’s a Feeling of Ahhh”: Men’s Suits Start to Loosen Up


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For more than a decade now, the skinny suit has reigned supreme on fashion’s runways. Whether you originally credit it to designer Hedi Slimane in his early aughts Dior days or Thom Browne with his iconic man-in-the-shrunken-gray-flannel suit, it’s long been the tailored grail. In Hollywood, slick agents routinely take meetings in ultra-slim turnouts, and hot young male stars seemed to be in competition for who could wear the tightest tuxedo.

But, for some style setters, this tight hold on all things sartorial is losing its grip.

Case in point, Dan Levy, who continued his ultra-fashionable awards run for Schitt’s Creek by donning a breezily fitted custom-made suit from The Row for the SAG Awards. On his Instagram, the actor called the outfit a “cream dream,” and his slouchy pose gave one hint of the look’s appeal.

“It’s a feeling of ahhh, like a woman’s dress that has pockets,” says his stylist Erica Cloud (@ecduzit). It also harked back, depending on your point of reference, to David Byrne in the ’80s, Armani in the ’90s and Diane Keaton anytime (Cloud cited her as one of their inspirations for the look).

In a similar vein, actor Justice Smith, who stars on HBO Max’s Generation, turned up recently on Jimmy Kimmel Live! in a muted aqua suit with a drapey oversized jacket and full-legged trousers from Paris fashion house Ami. That particular style was shown as gender-fluid on the runway, but his stylist Warren Alfie Baker (@warrenalfiebaker) says it’s also a throwback to classic men’s styles of yore. “We always laugh because Justice likes a bit of ‘grandad chic,’ ” adds Baker.

Two recent red carpet sightings from Versace recall the louche and loosely fitted ’90s glory days of Miami’s South Beach. Tame Impala’s Kevin Parker dialed into the March Grammy Awards wearing an oversize shirt and jacket in the label’s signature mixed prints with flowy green trousers, while Algee Smith donned a similarly proportioned suit in a hushed shade of pink for the Critics Choice Awards, accented with a gem-encrusted starfish via his stylist Enrique Melendez.

Even a bastion of sharply tailored Italian luxury is easing up. Brioni’s new capsule collection BP Signature, created with the house’s ambassador Brad Pitt, evinces gently relaxed proportions that summon the actor’s perpetual state of chill.

This story first appeared in the April 21 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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